Check your engine oil weekly
Park on level ground, wait for a cold engine, then pull the dipstick. Oil should sit between the min and max marks and look amber — not black or gritty. Low or dirty oil is the fastest route to expensive engine wear.
Daily car tips
Practical advice on maintaining your car, spotting a good used vehicle and owning it well.
Tip of the day · Wednesday, 28 October 2026
City crawl, open road and a rough patch. You are listening for gearbox hesitation, pulling under braking, clunks over bumps and any warning lights that appear when warm.
Park on level ground, wait for a cold engine, then pull the dipstick. Oil should sit between the min and max marks and look amber — not black or gritty. Low or dirty oil is the fastest route to expensive engine wear.
Most modern engines want fresh oil and a new filter every 5,000–10,000 km depending on the manufacturer. Nigerian traffic means lots of idling, so aim for the shorter end of the range.
Use the pressure listed on the driver's door jamb, not the number on the tyre wall. Correct pressure improves fuel economy, braking distance and tyre life — under-inflated tyres also overheat faster on highways.
Front tyres wear faster than rear. Rotating them keeps wear even, protects your alignment and saves you from replacing a full set early.
Squealing, a soft pedal, or vibration under braking means it is time. Pads under 3 mm should be replaced immediately — worn pads chew into discs, turning a cheap job into a costly one.
Most car batteries last 2–4 years. Clean corrosion off the terminals, check they are tight, and have the voltage tested. A weak battery also strains the alternator.
Dusty roads clog filters quickly. A blocked air filter starves the engine, hurting both power and fuel consumption. Inspect every service and replace at least yearly.
Check the coolant level in the reservoir when the engine is cold and top up with the correct specification — never plain water long-term. Overheating is one of the most common causes of engine failure in hot climates.
Idle for 30 seconds, then drive off gently for the first few kilometres. This lets oil reach every bearing without the wasted fuel of long idling.
Bright sun reveals mismatched paint, ripples in panels and overspray on rubber seals — all signs of accident repair that a night inspection hides.
Uneven gaps between bonnet, doors and boot, or paint-marked bolts on fenders, mean panels have been removed. Ask what happened and price accordingly.
Match the VIN on the dashboard, door sticker and documents. A history report shows accidents, mileage records and title issues before you commit.
Compare wear on the steering wheel, pedals and driver's seat with the odometer. Heavy wear on a low-mileage car is a classic clocking red flag.
Damp carpets, rust or fresh sealant in the boot well point to flood damage or rear-end repair. Water damage causes electrical faults for years afterwards.
A seller who warms the car before you arrive may be hiding smoke, rattles or a rough idle. Insist on starting it cold and listen for the first 30 seconds.
City crawl, open road and a rough patch. You are listening for gearbox hesitation, pulling under braking, clunks over bumps and any warning lights that appear when warm.
Plan for fresh fluids, filters, brake pads and tyres on any used purchase. Building this into your budget avoids surprise costs in month one.
An independent inspection costs a fraction of one repair and gives you leverage in negotiation. Any seller who refuses one is telling you something.
Running low pulls sediment into the fuel pump and filter, and the pump runs hotter. Keeping a reserve protects the pump and saves you in traffic.
Dust and sun harden the rubber. Streaking or chattering blades cut visibility badly in a downpour — they are among the cheapest safety parts on the car.
Mud, dust and salt trapped under the car accelerate rust in the sills and suspension mounts. Rinse the underside whenever you wash.
A steady light can mean something minor like a loose fuel cap; a flashing one means stop driving. Have the codes read early — small faults become big ones.
Knocking over bumps, uneven tyre wear or a car that pulls to one side means bushings, shocks or alignment need attention. Bad geometry ruins tyres fast.
Clean the cabin filter and check gas pressure before the hot season. Running a low-gas system damages the compressor, the most expensive part of the AC.
A documented service history is the single strongest thing you can show a buyer. Well-kept records regularly add real value at resale.
Ground clearance, tyre size availability and parts supply matter more day to day than headline horsepower. Choose a model with local parts and service support.
Fluid should be red-pink and odourless. Dark or burnt-smelling fluid means the gearbox has been overheated — a serious cost to repair.
Look for cracks, glazing, fraying and soft spongy hoses. A snapped serpentine belt strands you and can overheat the engine within minutes.
Downshift on long descents instead of riding the brakes. This keeps pads and fluid from overheating and losing bite when you really need it.
Headlamps, indicators, brake and reverse lights. Ask someone to watch while you press the pedal — a dead brake light is invisible from the driver's seat.
Between two identical models, the well-maintained one at a higher price is almost always cheaper to own. Condition beats a headline discount.